Halcyon Spirits 17yo Single Cask 2007 Caol Ila [Tasted #683]

You may have have seen us cover a few releases from recently-established Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits over the past 12 or so months. After bursting onto the scene mid-2023 with a 30yo Macallan, followed by a 32yo Auchentoshan, 30yo Clynelish & 27yo Burnside, they've now ventured over to Islay with their first peated release - a 17yo single cask Caol Ila from 2007.

I've been saying for a long time now that (in my opinion) Caol Ila is one of the most versatile Scotch whiskies out there. It can be fantastic young, middle-aged or long-aged, it's great from both Sherry and Bourbon casks, it works well in highballs (try it with lemon peel), cocktails and neat, and it's absolutely magic, magic stuff from the early 1980s.

I remember drinking a lot of 2007, 2008 Caol Ila single casks about 6-7 years ago (at the time around 10yo), and many of them were excellent, so I was excited to try one with a bit more age on it...

Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #5" Caol Ila Aged 17 Years (56% ABV, Single Malt, 17yo, 1 of 273 bottles, Scotland, £150)
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Colour: Amber gold

Nose: Ashy, meaty BBQ at first, but with unmistakeable Caol Ila DNA underneath. Rich smoke, a slightly oak dustiness. After time, a subtle hint of meaty sulphur (in a good way).

Palate: Follows the nose, with some added sweet honey/maple notes, yet still plenty of smoked meat. It's soft, yet carries power and persistence. There's some hoisin sauce and glazed BBQ duck, and subtle, underlying hints of that trademark Caol Ila lemon-y note.

Finish: Long, soft smoke with a slightly sweet BBQ / lemon finish.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Exactly what I hoped for - balanced, complex, delicious. For the price? Excellent value (especially for those in HK benefiting from the recently-reduced taxes).

Thanks to Halcyon for sending us the sample for this review.

Cheers,

Martin.

Gordon & MacPhail Recollection Series #3: 1984 Convalmore, 1981 North Port & 1991 Rosebank [Tasted #680 - 682]

A look back over our Gordon & MacPhail-tagged posts shows it's been a pretty great past few years when it comes to trying incredibly long-aged, well-matured whiskies here at TimeforWhisky.com. In addition to one-off bottlings in the the 60 Year Old, 70 Year Old and even 80 Year Old age ranges, we've also been introduced to "The Recollection Series" of whiskies - #1 in 2022, #2 in 2023 and now, hot off the press, comes Series #3.

These series feature single malts originating from closed, or long-time silent distilleries, with spirit matured in bespoke asks commissioned by G&M. 

Series #1 and #2 saw us taste some incredible drams like Glen Mhor from 1973 and 1982, 1982 St Magdalene, 1981 Port Ellen & 1981 Lochside, so whatever was in store for Series #3, we knew it would be good.

...and we weren't wrong. With 6 expressions this time around, the series is a little smaller, but no less impressive, featuring:

• Rosebank 1991 – RRP £2,100
• Glenlochy 1979 – RRP £4,000
• Convalmore 1984 – RRP £2,300
• Imperial 1990 – RRP £1,650
• North Port 1981 – RRP £3,850
• Port Ellen 1981 – RRP £10,000

Featuring eye-catching, bold new packaging, G&M calls the whiskies ‘forgotten masterpieces’ and ‘lost works of art’, with the distilleries’ spirit revived using stunning illustrations from Emmy-award winning artist, Bruno Mangyoku. 

Stuart Urquhart, Operations Director at Gordon & MacPhail, said: 

“This year marks our third Recollection Series, which again brings a carefully chosen selection of rare and unique whiskies to enthusiasts worldwide. We’re fortunate enough to have access to a liquid library which is testament to the relationships we’ve nurtured with whisky distillers for almost 130 years.

We’re proud to be able to revive the spirit of these historic distilleries, bringing their stories back into the present day.”  

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Rosebank 1991 32yo (51.2% ABV, 32yo, First Fill Bourbon Barrel #2114, Lowland, Scotland, One of 141 bottles, £2,100)
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A distillery called Rosebank was operating as early as 1817. From 1840, under the ownership of the Rankine family, Rosebank prospered, however the distillery eventually closed its doors in 1993. It was reopened under new ownership to great fanfare in 2024. This release is one of the oldest and rarest Rosebank single malts ever released.

Colour: Light sunset gold.

Nose: Light and tropical, with orange, banana and pineapple. As a kid I used to love Golden Circle Tropical Punch fruit juice, and this nose took me straight back to those primary school playground days.  It's a subtle nose though - slowly revealing itself. After time, some lemon slice shows through too.

Palate: Fruity maple syrup? There's a rose-flavoured note, and in the background (subtle) pineapple and banana. 

Finish: Mango and guava! Big time, and long. I recently tried a single cask Springbank (interestingly the same age) and it also had this hugely tropical finish 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). The highest score I've ever given to a Rosebank? Probably. Feels like it's the best I've tried.

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" North Port 1981 42yo (50.9% ABV, 42yo, Refill American Hogshead #2072, Highland, Scotland, One of 132 bottles, £3,850)
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Single malts featuring the distillery’s original name, Brechin Distillery, are vanishingly rare. Founded in 1820 near Scotland’s east coast by three brothers, David, John and Alexander Guthrie, the distillery stood half a mile from the River Esk. It remained in family ownership for over a century, renamed North Port Distillery, before new owners closed its doors in 1928. It reopened after the Second World War only to fall silent again in 1983, with the site demolished in 1994. 

Colour: Light amber gold

Nose: Instantly, that well-matured, balanced, incredibly complex nose that shines through on so many of these older G&M releases. There's oak, there's fresh fruit (orchard fruits, peaches, apples) with slightly tropical undertones, nuttiness, fresh pear, and (with a drop of water) some pineapple, apricot and more peach.

Palate: Follows the nose just beautifully, with the oak and fruit in perfect harmony, alongside some gingerbread, mandarin, apricot and graceful oak.

Finish: Very, very long, with a slightly drying oak note and (after a drop of water), some peach.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). Now THIS is whisky. Just a beautiful dram.

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Convalmore 1984 39yo (51.1% ABV, 39yo, Refill Sherry Hogshead #1733, Speyside, Scotland, One of 108 bottles, £2,300)
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Opened as the fourth of Dufftown’s famed seven stills in the heart of Speyside in 1894, Convalmore’s waxy, fruity spirit has very rarely been seen as a single malt whisky. Dedicated almost entirely to blended whiskies, production was interrupted in 1909 by a fire. The distillery expanded in 1964 but was mothballed in 1985. The original buildings are still on the site but the production equipment has been removed. 

Colour: Rich mahogany.

Nose: Muted at first, but after some time it turns into a rich and elegant display of mocha, leather, fresh berries, berry compote and toffee.

Palate: Mature oak with noticeable, but not overpowering sherry notes. Flamed orange zest, black forrest cake, sherry-soaked cherries, cigar humidor, milk coffee and to round things out, hints of dried apricot.

Finish: Long, balanced oak with citrus hints.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). My love for Convalmore continues.

For more information on Gordon & MacPhail or the Recollection series, visit www.gordonandmacphail.com.

Many thanks again to G&M who kindly provided the tasting of these three beautiful single malts, and & Weber Shandwick for the arrangement.

Cheers,

Martin.

Woodford Reserve Tasting with Elizabeth McCall, Woodford Reserve Sonoma Triple Finish [Tasted #679]

Last week, we had the pleasure of joining Elizabeth McCall, Woodford Reserve’s Master Distiller, for an evening of whisky insights, flavour exploration, and plenty of banter ahead of Old Fashioned Week.

Elizabeth kicked off the evening with her unexpected path to whisky. With a background in psychology and counselling, she entered Brown-Forman’s sensory department almost by chance. Her story unfolded as one of curiosity and a deepening passion for whisky, taking her from quality control to training teams worldwide in sensory analysis, eventually landing her the prestigious role of Master Distiller. One of the standout moments was Elizabeth describing her journey from psych studies to the whisky lab—a blend of fate, sensory expertise, and a love for exploring the depths of flavour.

Elizabeth McCall’s journey into the world of whisky is as unique and unexpected as it is inspiring. Growing up, she never imagined she would one day become a master distiller. Instead, Elizabeth pursued her passion for psychology, earning a degree in counselling psychology and initially envisioning a career as a therapist. 

Her introduction to the whisky world started while attending her younger brother’s graduation party, she happened to strike up a conversation with a guest who worked at Brown-Forman, Woodford Reserve’s parent company. When Elizabeth shared her interest in sensory sciences and her struggles finding the right career path, he suggested she apply to their sensory department, where her psychology background would be a valuable asset. Elizabeth was intrigued—she didn’t know much about whisky or sensory evaluation at the time, but the opportunity was too exciting to pass up.

Starting in Brown-Forman’s quality control department, Elizabeth found herself drawn to the nuances of whisky production and sensory evaluation. She was immersed in the hands-on, often mysterious world of whisky-making, working alongside industry experts who taught her about distilling, blending, and the complex layers of flavour that make each whisky unique. A pivotal moment came when she learned that whisky is clear when it first comes off the still—a revelation that sparked her curiosity and deepened her respect for the entire maturation process. She dove into every aspect of her role, from learning to interpret tasting data to helping shape new methods for sensory training across Brown-Forman’s global teams.

In 2014, Elizabeth’s career took a major step forward when she attended a class with Chris Morris, then Woodford Reserve’s Master Distiller. Chris invited her to train as a Master Taster, a role that would allow her to further her sensory skills. Her training alongside Morris offered her the chance to develop her own sensory style, and she soon became the expert palate behind Woodford Reserve.

In 2015, she officially took on the role of Master Taster, working across both Woodford Reserve and Old Forester. Then, in 2016, Woodford Reserve claimed her focus entirely, and Elizabeth moved to the Woodford Reserve Distillery full-time, working as a sensory scientist and overseeing quality control at the historic site. By 2018, she had advanced to Assistant Master Distiller, and in 2023, she achieved the role of Master Distiller.

The tasting session took us through Woodford Reserve’s five sources of flavour: fruit and floral, spice, grain, sweet aromatics, and wood. The tasting paired three Woodford Reserve expressions, with selected foods. Elizabeth led us through each pour with insights into how flavour is crafted, and, more importantly, how it can transform through pairing.

We started with the flagship Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select bourbon, an iconic expression built around Woodford’s signature “five sources of flavour”—fruit and floral, spice, grain, sweet aromatics, and wood. To bring out the whisky’s versatile profile, Elizabeth introduced a trio of food pairings: parmesan cheese, dried cranberries, and fresh orange slices.

Next up was the Woodford Reserve Rye; a pre-prohibition style rye that’s as approachable as it is complex. Elizabeth guided us through the tasting, with soft hints of baking spices, honeyed sweetness, and dill on the nose. She described the palate as smooth and slightly sweet, with warming cinnamon and nutmeg spices that are softened by notes of light honey and malted barley. This rye is fitting for those who are new to rye or are wanting to check out the category. Elizabeth highlighted how the finish, with its lingering spice and nutty character, reveals the subtle depth and complexity of Woodford’s rye without overpowering the palate. 

The third and final expression we tasted was the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked, A personal favourite of Elizabeth’s, Double Oaked takes Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select through a second aging phase in a heavily toasted, lightly charred barrel. This added step builds upon the bourbon’s natural complexity, bringing notes of butterscotch, vanilla, marzipan, and dark caramel. To bring out these indulgent flavours, Elizabeth paired the Double Oaked with dark chocolate.

But just as we thought we had completed the tasting, came the highlight for the night, the Woodford Reserver Sonoma Triple Finish

Woodford Reserve Sonoma Triple Finish (45.2% ABV, Versailles, Kentucky, USA, A$269.99)

The Sonoma Triple Finish, a limited Master’s Collection release with a triple-barrel maturation process in Korbel brandy, Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir, and Woodford barrels. With its rich, fruity character and slightly red hue, this whisky was the highlight of the night for me.

Nose: A rich, layered aroma opens with brandy-soaked cherries, sweet cherry liqueur, and the warmth of Christmas cake. Notes of juicy raisins and a subtle hint of baking spices emerge, hinting at the complex interplay between brandy, Pinot Noir, and bourbon barrels.

Palate: Silky and creamy on the tongue, leading with soft vanilla and a medley of warming spices. Clove and nutmeg add depth, mingling with sweet caramel and a burst of tart raspberries. The barrel influence brings a gentle, toasted oak character, balancing sweetness with spice.

Finish: The finish is long and warm, lingering with a satisfying, spiced complexity that hints at cloves and subtle red fruit notes, leaving a memorable, layered impression.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

As a fitting end to the evening, and to celebrate Old Fashioned Week, we were served a Dessert Old Fashioned made with maple syrup instead of traditional sugar syrup. It’s a fantastic choice for those looking to experience the Old Fashioned in a new way, with a hint of dessert-like richness.

It was a truly remarkable night with Elizabeth McCall, hearing her stories about balancing life as a master distiller and her reflections on the art of sensory tasting. It’s clear that her journey is just beginning, and with her leadership, Woodford Reserve’s spirit of innovation is in great hands.

Thanks to We Are Different PR and Woodford Reserve for having us on the night

Cheers

Hendy

Old Master Spirits' Tiffon V.45 Petite Champagne Cognac [Tasted #678]

 We've tasted plenty of pretty old spirits on the blog over the years (and some very old ones), but I'll never say no to another. So when Deni from Australia's Old Master Spirits reached out to say there was a care package of samples on the way, I was pretty excited. 

That care package included some beauties I've already covered like their 63yo Peyrot Cognac (which was a steal at $349AUD), but it included one sample I had to keep quiet about for a while. One special sample - in the form of Old Master Spirits' 1945 Tiffon Petite Champagne Cognac.

The oldest release so far by Deni & David from OMS, this nearly 80 year old war time Tiffon was distilled in 1945 and bottled in 2023 after more than 60 years in refill troncais and limousine barrels (in Tiffon's humid cellars) followed by the remainder in Demijohn. 

I'll admit I wasn't overly familiar with Tiffon, but learned that much like the other houses OMS work with, it's a family-owned house (currently run by the fourth generation), founded in 1875 on the banks of the River Charente located in Grande Champagne cru (not far from Courvoisier). The current generation harvests grapes, distils cognac and cares for the still-maturing stock from previous generations - like this release.

Bottled at natural cask strength of 45.2% ABV and made from Ugni Blanc grapes, this release is limited to a minuscule 24 bottles only, available by ballot with results to be announced on 31st October 2024.

So let's try this #malternative shall we?

 

Old Master Spirits' 1945 Tiffany  V.45 Petite Champagne Cognac (45.2% ABV, 77-78yo, Cask Strength, France, One of 24 bottles, $1,299AUD)
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Colour: Burnished copper gold.

Nose: Initially there's a well-balanced mix of mandarin and varnish, but almost instantly comes notes of milk chocolate, herbal jelly & cigar box. Give it some air though, and some beautiful tropical notes start to emerge - lashings of guava, more mandarin and tangerine, and some underripe mango.

Palate: Mandarin again, fruit compote, raisins and fresh apricots, then oranges, more guava, some pineapple, and a slight hint of varnish. With some Cognacs of this age, I find the varnish / furniture polish notes can dominate. Here, they're perfectly balanced with significant amounts of fruit - much of it tropical.

Finish: Long and citrusy, with orange chocolate notes partnering with sweet hints of oak long after the liquid is gone.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). This has amazing freshness for something over 75 years old. It's incredibly balanced, AND delicious (OK that's subjective, but I suspect most will agree).  

Thanks yet again Deni & David for the sample.

Cheers,
Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com interviews Spirit of the Craft Award winners Westward Whiskey, Launceston Distillery, Raasay Distillery & Macaloney's Distillery

We recently posted news on Facebook of a new Spirits Awards (hear us out...), the first from Asia, focusing on smaller producers around the world. "Spirit of Craft Awards" was launched in January of this year, and involves a panel of experts from Asia's bar and drinks media community.

Over three months, entries from across 15 countries – Australia, Cambodia, Canada, Finland, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Italy, Scotland, Singapore, Thailand, New Zealand, Netherlands, and the U.S. – made their way to Singapore for judging by a panel of 36 judges in early May, with the results announced shortly after.

The full list of 2024/2025 winners can be found here, but we were lucky enough to score an interview with four of the winners, including both "3 Star" winners Isle of Raasay & Launceston Distillery, as well as Westward Distillery (whose whiskies we've covered a few times on the blog) & Macaloney Distillery. 

We wanted to understand what made their whiskies unique, the industry changes they've seen, how they engage customers in an increasingly crowded market, and any learnings they've picked up about running a distillery. So without further ado, we bring the answers from:

• Launceston Distillery Head Distiller / Production Manager - Chris Condon
• Raasay Distillery Co-Founder and Master Distiller - Alasdair Day
• Westward Distillery Master Blender - Miles Munroe; and
• Macaloney's Island Distillery President & Master wheiskymaker - Dr Graeme Macaloney

The view from Raasay Distillery's warehouse

1. There’s a lot of great whisky out there, and a lot of distilleries who’ve opened in the past 5-10 years. In a sentence of two, what makes yours stand out?

• Launceston: "We are a boutique whisky distillery, solely focussed on producing hand-crafted single malts. Our location in a restored heritage-listed aircraft hangar is an obvious point of difference. We also try to stay true to ourselves, an independent distillery that strives to consistently make high quality small batch whisky."

• Raasay: "We do everything on Raasay - using water from our well at the distillery for mashing, fermentation, cooling, cask reduction and reduction to bottling strength. We mature all of our spirits in our own warehouses and bottle everything on site, where we now employ over 40 people who live on Raasay (an island with a population of only 161!). Our community and island are a constant source of inspiration, seen in the bespoke Isle of Raasay bottles with hand printed rock and fossil formations from our complex geology. Our spirit directly reflects and truly represents the island where it is created."

• Westward: "At Westward, which is located in the heart of the American Northwest we’re beholden to whiskey, not the traditions that surround it. Westward is brewed like a Pale Ale, distilled like a Single Malt, and aged like a Bourbon. Our whiskeys are matured to perfection in Oregon, one of the most fertile barley-growing regions in the world, where our unique hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters are the ideal environment to raise a world class whiskey."

• Macaloney's: "The World Whiskies Awards (WWAs) in the UK are the most competitive in the world and conducted via blind tasting with industry-experienced judges. At these, our whisky and new-make underpinning our whiskies have won 3 'World's Best' and 8 'Category Best' gold medals. Our growing repeat sales, in Taiwan, across Europe, and elsewhere (we are interested to find a distributor for Australia) in an economic climate where Scotch sales are down, speaks to the excitement and interest in high quality whiskies with real craft provenance like ours."

Launceston Distillery

2. How have you seen the industry change in the time since you started?

• Launceston: "There has been tremendous growth in the Tasmanian industry. The number of distilleries has doubled in that time. But consumers are now more aware of Tasmanian spirits, and there has been international recognition for the quality of whisky coming from Tasmania."

• Raasay: "There have been some massive changes in the industry in Scotland since we founded R&B Distillers in July 2014. At that time there were only 90 operating distilleries in Scotland selling single malt whisky. Now there are over 150 malt and grain distilleries. There have been huge steps forward in technology since we designed our process for our Isle of Raasay distillery particularly in sustainable technology."

• Westward: "Westward began in 2004. At the time, there were just 3 dozen craft distilleries in the U.S. Today, we’re proud to be a leader among more than 3,000. With that, it means that to truly stand out you have to have a distinct point of view, excellent quality credentials, and an innovative approach."

• Macaloney's: "There has been a lot more interest in craft single malt as enthusiasts look for greater quality, yearn to understand what creates the flavours, and are interested in genuine provenance. Also connoisseurs have come to realise that quality is not tied to age and that deep complex maturation comes from best distilling practices and the best oak casks."

Westward's Miles Munroe

3. As a craft distillery, what’s the best way to engage new and potential fans?

• Launceston: "For people who are not familiar with our whisky, nothing beats giving them a taste. Therefore, award programs like SOcraft provide valuable recognition and exposure, which gives new customers the confidence to taste our whisky for the first time."

• Raasay: "We are creating experiences for all of our guests who visit our Isle of Raasay distillery. The adventure starts when you make the 25 minute ferry crossing from Sconser on Skye to the Isle of Raasay, then a short walk (and an even shorter drive) to the distillery. We have six luxury ensuite bedrooms, a restaurant, residents lounge and a bar all with amazing views looking back over the Sound of Raasay to the Cuillin Mountains on Skye. It's the perfect place to relax with a Raasay dram, gin or a cocktail and soak up the full Isle of Raasay experience!"

• Westward: "We’re lucky to have won a host of awards and accolades, including the distinction as the #5 whisky in the world by Whisky Advocate. Those major acknowledgements – and the recognition of global authorities in whisky like Dave Broom, Becky Paskin, and others — have certainly helped us discover new fans and followers. We also love sharing what it is that we do with whiskey enthusiasts and visitors to the distillery, and proudly serves as an ‘open book’ in our approach to whiskey-making. This approach to transparency – where no question is off-limits – really helps us stay engaged with our customers."

• Macaloney's: "Liquid to lips! We love to send ambassadors in to whisky clubs or into whisky stores for vertical tastings, and to festival masterclasses where enthusiasts can taste our quality and hear our story."

Macaloney Distillery tour

4. What’s your “go to” or everyday whisky from your line-up, and why? What about your “special occasion” whisky?

• Launceston: "Our tawny cask matured whisky is a great everyday whisky. It has lovely fruity aromas and flavours, a rich smooth mouthfeel, and a finish that a judge recently compared to a ‘friendly bear hug’. It sips well neat,  but also has nice complexity that works well with cocktails. On special occasions we like our peated release. It is mildly peated with sweet bourbon and tawny influences to balance the smoke. This makes it very approachable, even for people who don’t like peat."

• Raasay: "My "go to" whisky from our line-up is our signature Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt as this represents everything we do on Raasay. 80% of our annual production is filling the casks for our unique Na Sia cask recipe - we mature 6 separate cask types and marry these together at bottling to created our lightly peated style with dark fruit flavours. My "special occasion" whisky is our fully matured Columbian Oak 'Quercus humboldtii' cask single malt. This has a depth of flavour and texture ranging from Creme brulee to oolong tea. It is very special indeed and a very unique cask type to the Scotch Whisky industry."

• Westward: "The one to always reach for is Westward Whiskey Original, this is what began the innovative journey we’re still on. Our flagship whiskey is the trunk of the tree with almost all other variations branching off from this starting point.  It envelops everything about why we do what we do at Westward in the bottle.  My special occasion pour is most certainly Westward Whiskey Milestone.  Without a doubt the most elegant single malt we’ve produced, it's a marriage of our most highly prized casks and carefully blended over years in a twenty-one barrel Solera system."

• Macaloney's: "Thats a tough question partly because there are all my babies, plus we uniquely distill 3 very different styles - Single malt, Triple distilled pot still, and Peated single malt (smoked at our distillery). Of the single malts i love the an loy because like japanese single malts it is delicate and nieuanced  but with great depth and bapanced complexity. For the triple pot still it has to be the kildara becuase it defeated 27 year old, 21 yo, 15yo and 12 yo redbreast irish whiskies to win worlds best!, And for the peated a favorite is hard to choose becuase the 15ppm an aba is delicately sherried, whereas the 27 ppm siol dugall is fantastic for its virgin and bourbon-wood influence, whereas our peat project sugar kelp infused 54ppm peated single cask is a spectacular exploration of terroir and merroir!"

Westward Distillery

5. When you were growing your distillery, which was more important - on-premise or off-premise / retail?

• Launceston: "Both cannot be overlooked, and I would suggest they are as important as each other.  On-premise allows for new consumers to try our whisky without the outlay of a bottle purchase, however the retail space needs to be considered to give the consumer the easiest path to purchase once they have enjoyed it in a bar or restaurant."

• Raasay: "All of our sales channels are very important to us. On-premise is where new and potential fans can discover our Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt & gin, seeing our bottle stand out on the back bar and enjoy their first dram. Off-premise / retail is where fans and lovers of Isle of Raasay can acquire our spirits, satisfy their signature Raasay desires and seek out our latest special releases."

• Westward: "Great question, and this has changed of course drastically through Covid and beyond. We look for a mix of both at Westward. We’re fortunate to have many enthusiasts in the bar world who respect what we do, and that is an excellent path for consumer discovery. But we also recognize that our whiskey needs to be available for a consumer who then wants to shop for our products.."

• Macaloney's: "Off premise however i now realize our whiskies are amazing in cocktails so bars will be important going forward."

Launceston Distillery's "Angus"

6. What’s one thing you wish you knew about running a distillery before you began?

• Launceston: "Sometimes the romance of running a distillery can be very different to the reality. It can be hard work and it requires patience and perseverance. But when everything comes together after years of maturation it is well worth the effort."

• Raasay: "How difficult it can be to stay focused on our key messaging and continuously, consistently preach that key messaging to the world. "

• Westward: "With Westward, we’re always planning several years ahead. The whiskey we make today won’t see the light of day for at least half a decade (give or take), and so we are always a step ahead. That includes some of our expansion efforts – like our capacity increase we recently underwent."

• Macaloney's: "HOW HARD IT IS TO MAKE A PROFIT AFTER ALL THE COSTS AND TAXES!"

A stunning vista from Raasay Distillery

 

 

Thanks must go to Chris, Alasdair, Miles & Dr Graham for the time and answers, and to the great team at Food News Singapore for coordinating the responses & media.

Cheers,

Martin.

Halcyon Spirits 27yo Single Cask 1996 Burnside [Tasted #677]

I wrote last year about new Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits, and how their 2000-strong cask inventory probably meant we'd probably see many bottles to come. It wasn't long after their inaugural release (a 30yo Macallan) that I tasted their second release (a 32yo Auchentoshan) and whilst I didn't manage to try their third (a 30yo Clynelish), the team have now released (and kindly sent me a sample of) their fourth - a 27yo Burnside from 1996 (finished in an ex-sherry cask and bottled in 2024).

"Burnside", some of you may ask? Basically, a teaspooned whisky, or a blended malt which is predominantly one malt, with only a small amount of another. There's a whole discussion to be had about if all "teaspooned" whisky is really teaspooned, or if some of it is single malt simply labelled/sold as a blended malt, but that's for another post. 

In this case, Burnside is the name given to a whisky predominantly made up of Balvenie, with only a small amount of Glenfiddich. 

Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #4" Burnside Aged 27 Years (52.9% ABV, Blended Malt, 27yo, 1 of 292 bottles, Scotland, £195)
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Colour: Burnished copper-gold

Nose: Fruit & nuts, pear, honey and some molasses. There are sultana notes, and after some air & time to open up, subtle ginger hints.

Palate: Initial citrus zest, giving way to more honey and molasses, some oak spice, walnuts, dried oranges, vanilla custard, some green frog jelly lollies, and finally some cinnamon. The sherry influence is there, without doubt, but it doesn't overpower the whisky, allowing other notes to show.

Finish: Medium to long, with dried orange most predominant, and subtle ginger spice in the background.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). I enjoy Balvenie, and have always enjoyed the Burnsides I've tried - a lot. This one is no different - a great dram, and a very reasonable price for a 27yo (more or less) Balvenie!

Cheers,

Martin.

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" - Bruichladdich 31yo, Arran 24yo & Glenburgie 24yo [Tasted #674 - 676]

Whisky and art collaborations are nothing new - we've seen everything from Macallan's "Masters of Photography" series, to Glenfiiddich's "Arists in Residence" program, to Glenmorangie's more recent efforts with Azuma Makoto. My view of these has always been the same - they can be fun, sure, and when the collaboration "fits", even great, but fundamentally the underlying whisky has to be good. At the end of the day, you can't drink art!

Thankfully, Cask88's latest collaboration with Britain's legendary illustrator Ralph Steadman not only brings the fun & feels like it "fits", it also involves some fantastic whisky!

Dubbed the Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course, the series is intended to take drinkers on a journey of Scotland's distilleries via illustrations from Ralph Steadman's 1994 memoir "Still life with Bottle: Whisky According to Ralph Steadman" adorning bottles of "exquisite, greatly aged, unique single malts from the finest distilleries in Scotland".

Starting (fittingly) with Part One, the series kicks things off with 3 single cask bottlings, available individually by the 700mL bottle or as a set of 3 x 50mL miniatures:

• Arran 24 Year Old (44.7%)
• Bruichladdich 31 Year Old (50.6%)
• Glenburgie 24 Year Old (55.2%)

The team at Cask88 were kind enough to send me a miniature set for review, and I've gotta say, this is one of the most impressively designed "sample sets" I've ever seen - right down to the ink pot sample bottles. Sure, it's all about the whisky inside, but opening this certainly brought a smile to my face.

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Bruichladdich 31yo (50.6% ABV, 31yo, Refill Hogshead #2258, Islay, Scotland, £565 / $5,650HKD)

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Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Light and fruity - grape skins, pear & peach, followed by subtle vanilla hints.

Palate: Oh now we're talking - Tropic Thunder! Passionfruit, lots of pineapple, some guava and apple. Grapefruit, vanilla & pear notes too. It's a tropical fruit basket, with perfectly balanced sweetness.

Finish: Largely follows the palate - tropical right to the end, when a cooling subtle mint note kicks in.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Beautiful.

 

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Arran 24yo (44.7% ABV, 24yo, Oloroso Hogshead #1556, £565 / $4,250HKD)

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Colour: Rich amber gold.

Nose: Creamy strawberries & raspberries, with a spray of orange zest, and underlying chocolate hints.

Palate: In line with the nose, sweet strawberries and raspberries, then maple syrup, walnuts, peanut brittle, strawberries again (with cream this time), and more of that chocolate.

Finish: Long and full of dark chocolate and oranges, with a slightly bitter raspberry note.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Arran around this age can be very good, and this is no exception.

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Glenburgie 24yo (55.2% ABV, 24yo, 1st Fill Sherry Butt #9316, £300 / $3,000HKD)

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Colour: Deep copper.

Nose: Funk, slight sulphur note, chocolate-coated cherries and sour gummies - something I only occasionally find on well-serried whiskies, but a note I really enjoy.

Palate: Rich, unctuous and funky. Oak, but balanced with savoury sherry notes, mature oranges, coffee beans, rooibos tea and ripe raspberries, with a slight bitterness after some air.

Finish: Long, warming coffee notes with some berries, and oak funk.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Lots going on here, and it all works well together. Really enjoyable.

 

I have to say, I was expecting one, maybe two of these casks to be standouts, but didn't expect all 3 to be so good. All very different (fruity, moderately sherried & very sherried), but all excellent.

The Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course is available directly from Cask88 in the UK, or from Dram Good Stuff in Hong Kong (pricing and links above).

Cheers,

Martin.

Starward Botrytis Cask [Tasted #673]

Before discovering Starward's latest release, the Botrytis Cask, I had never heard of Botrytis wine. A conversation with Martin revealed it's a type of dessert wine, piquing my interest to learn a bit more about this wine. Some reading into Botrytis wine unveiled fascinating details about this unique wine and how it influences Starward's new project release.

Botrytis is a type of fungus that shrivels and decays wine grapes (see below for an image of the fungus on a bunch of riesling grapes), yet is highly coveted in winemaking due to its ability to intensify sweetness and add flavour complexity. Known scientifically as Botrytis cinerea, this fungus is related to the strains used in penicillin and blue cheese. In winemaking, Botrytis dehydrates the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours, which makes the resulting wine richer and sweeter. This process, often referred to as 'noble rot,' creates dessert wines with unique notes of honey, beeswax, and ginger. Notable examples include France's Sauternes and Hungary's Tokaji Aszú."

Typically harvested late in the season, Botrytis wines undergo a meticulous, slow fermentation process and can age gracefully for decades. Their rarity and labour-intensive production often make them expensive and highly sought after as the grapes are often hand picked to ensure there is a balance between botrytis fruit amongst the grapes.

Now what happens when you age whisky in Botrytis wine casks? I gather that the whisky will impart the characteristics from the Botrytis wine; with added sweetness, complexity, and a perhaps a rich, multidimensional whisky. 

So this is exactly what Starward have done in their latest unveiling, the Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. It was first filled in 2017 and bottled this year. As Head Blender at Starward Jarrad Huckshold explained, he had to use both, fresh and charred Botrytis casks when creating this release The combination of two barrel finishes helped the liquid “develop the distinct dessert-like characteristics”. Jarrad added: “The fresh barrels impart those nuanced botrytis characteristics on our signature spirit; while the portion of casks that were charred offer a slightly savoury mouthfeel and balance out some of the dessert-like characteristics. This is a moreish whisky that will make an impression.” 

It is said that Botrytis casks are uncommon as they're only made in small quantities in Australia, making this release exceptionally rare for Starward. In Australia, Botrytis semillon is a notable example of this style, produced from semillon grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea. The Hunter Valley is particularly famous for its Botrytis semillon, where the warm and humid climate, morning fog, and cooler evenings create perfect conditions for the development of 'noble rot'. The Hungerford Hill Botrytis Semillon is one example, with notes of sweet apricots and marmalade, balanced with some lemon citrus, balancing the richness and finishing clean. 

Starward Botrytis Cask (48% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

The Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. Overall, it was a concoction of dessert flavours, almost resembling what I would call a Christmas whisky with the range of sweet, rich and delectable notes.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich aroma of wax honey, reminiscent of honeycomb, followed by a refreshing hint of peppermint, the smell of a lush winter morning. There’s a delectable scent of scrumptious Christmas cake, laden with dried fruits and spices, accompanied by a sweet cherry glaze. Notes of rum and raisin ice cream add a creamy, boozy undertone, while fresh apples and pears, and a medley of fruit salad, bring a lively, juicy character. Hints of burnt orange and cinnamon round out the nose, adding warmth and complexity.

Palate: On the palate, it is rich and indulgent, starting with the sweet, comforting taste of vanilla cupcakes. More of those succulent raisins and fruit bread come through, complemented by the flavour of rum-soaked bread, echoing the notes of a traditional Christmas cake from the nose that's packed with raisins. Cinnamon buns add a spicy sweetness. The chewy texture of caramel lollies adds a luscious, lasting sweetness, creating a beautifully balanced and layered experience.

Finish: The finish is exceptionally long. Glazed cherry remnants provide a sweet, fruity finish, with persistent notes of rum and raisin that carry through to the end. A subtle hint of mint gradually settles, offering a refreshing, clean conclusion.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

The Botrytis Cask is the latest addition to the illustrious lineup of project releases, adding to the previous project release expressions. Starward Botrytis Cask is a distillery-exclusive release— to get your hand on a bottle, you can enter the ballot here to secure your bottle. The ballot will be drawn on 21st August.

Thanks to the Starward team for providing a sample Botrytis Cask bottling for us to try. 

Cheers

Hendy

Archie Rose Single Cask Series [Tasted #670 - #672]

In the world of whisky, few distilleries have carved out such a prominent place as quickly as Archie Rose Distillery in Sydney. Founded in 2014 by Will Edwards, Archie Rose has been known for innovating through all their different releases and for having quite unique proposition including their Tailored Spirits/Whisky Program and wood smoked whiskies. Guided by Master Distiller Dave Withers (one of the most knowledgable whisky folk we know and whom spent some time at the legendary Oak Barrel), Archie Rose has made leaps and bounds over the past decade to make a mark in the Australian whisky scene.

When Archie Rose first opened in 2014, the Australian whisky scene was quite different. Most people equated Australian whisky with Tasmanian whisky, and Sydney had been without a whisky distillery for a long time. In this landscape, Archie Rose emerged with its close proximity to Sydney city, a stunning bar (which we had reviewed back in 2015), unparalleled transparency, and a fresh attitude towards spirits. Along with Starward, which released its first whisky in 2013, Archie Rose began changing the scene.

A visit to Archie Rose in 2015 by Marto revealed the impressive setup and meticulous attention to detail in their production process. The original distillery, located in Rosebery, Sydney, was split into two sections: the production and cask storage on one side, and the stunning bar on the other. The distillery featured a hand-spun hopper for a 600kg mash, mash tun and stills by Peter Bailly, and Italian-made fermenters with temperature control. The distillation process includes a 3,600L steam-heated wash still, a 1,700L spirit still, and a 300L gin still for infusing botanicals. While Archie Rose has moved its distillery to Banksmeadow in 2020, much of the above equipment remain at their original site for display to the public.

Archie Rose’s innovative streak is quite evident over the years. They started with white spirits—gin, vodka, and white rye—and quickly expanded their offerings. The distillery’s approach to local sourcing is one of the things that sets them apart; they source all their malts locally and also use native ingredients such as red gum and stringybark for smoking their rye grain (as opposed to importing peated grain or peated barley).

They introduced the Tailored Spirits program, allowing customers to create their personalised gin, vodka, or whisky. The Tailored program, first, launched in 2015, has been pioneering in making personalised spirits accessible and affordable. In 2018, they continued their innovative pursuits by launching the Six Malt New Make, a new make blend derived from six different malt mash bills. This release provided insights into the base spirit of Archie Rose’s single malt whisky, showcasing their dedication to quality and depth from the start. More recent releases include Heritage Red Gum Cask Single Malt from earlier this year and Double Malt Whisky in 2023, released as part of Archie Rose's Fundamental Spirits Range.

Commencing this year, Archie Rose has also begun exporting their products to Asia, including markets like Korea, Malaysia, and Singapore. The expansion is part of their strategy to present a full portfolio of products and establish a strong international presence.

The upcoming Single Cask Series, to be released on 11 June, includes three distinct releases:

• The Heritage Rye Malt Single Cask, aged in a single apera cask, serving as a homage to Australia’s heritage of fortified wines and showcasing Riverina-sourced heritage rye malt. This was my pick of the three.
• The Single Malt Single Cask, an example of what makes Archie Rose’s signature whisky special. This single cask offers layer upon layer of malt-driven flavours, an excellent fruit profile, and a beautifully balanced apera cask influence. At four and a half years old and full cask strength, it delivers quite a powerful and incredibly complex whisky.
• The Smoked Rye Malt Single Cask, made from NSW heritage rye grain, custom smoked over sustainably harvested Australian native stringybark, offering a truly unique and entirely Australian flavour profile. This cask-strength whisky balances sweetness, smoke, and rye spice with flavours reminiscent of campfire, grilled peaches, and prosciutto.

We sat down with Will and Dave as part of the launch of the Single Cask Batch 1 Release where they noted that one of the significant challenges in whisky production for them is in sourcing high-quality casks. Over the years, Archie Rose partnered closely with wineries though they have now also developed their own method of developing bespoke sherry casks. The process, managed in their Banksmeadow facility, ensures that each cask contributes uniquely to the whisky’s flavour profile. Both the Single Malt and Heritage Rye Malt single cask releases were bottled from ex apera casks.

Will and Dave also shared their thoughts and experience, particularly their frustration in dealing with rye early on in the Archie Rose journey. Rye, known for its glutinous nature, presents a different kind of challenge. Will spoke to the use of a new mash filters at their Banksmeadow facility which they didn't have at their original Rosebery distillery. Will shared his experience in dealing with rye early on, something akin to trying to sieve the liquid out of a porridge; that's basically what working with rye is like. With the new mash filters at the Banksmeadow facility, working with rye has become much more manageable.

"It's an amazing thing to come across a cask and say, 'This. This one right here. That's the essence of what we're trying to achieve." quoted Will Edwards

Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Heritage Rye Malt (68.2% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$299)

The Heritage Rye Malt Single Cask has been aged in a single apera cask, serving as a homage to Australia’s heritage of fortified wines and showcasing Riverina-sourced heritage rye malt. This was my favourite of the three single cask releases.

Nose: The aroma opens up nicely with the sweetness of honey and apricots, accompanied by the richness of cherries and plums. There is some rye spice and other spices adding a layer of depth and intrigue.

Palate: On the palate, it's very velvety, rich and mouth-filling layers of concentrated fruits, more apricots and cherries. These fruity notes are complemented by a hint of toasted oak, which adds a delicate woodiness.

Finish: The finish is long and luxurious, with the rich flavours of apricot and cherry persisting. There's a lingering fruit and spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Single Malt (66.9% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$349)

The Single Malt Single Cask is an incredible example of what makes Archie Rose’s signature whisky so special. This single cask offers layer upon layer of malt-driven flavours, an excellent fruit profile, and a beautifully balanced apera cask influence. At four and a half years old and full cask strength, it delivers quite a powerful and incredibly complex whisky.

Nose: The aroma opens with the rich sweetness of nougat, sticky raisins and Christmas pudding, creating a luscious mix of fruit (there's the apera influence). Some milk chocolate and orange citrus.

Palate: On the palate, roasted almonds and some chocolate, the milk chocolate, mixed with sticky date pudding. There is more on the rich fruit and spices.

Finish: The finish is long and dry, with the fruit and spices gradually giving way to a drying finish.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)

Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Smoked Rye Malt (65.1% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$269)

The Smoked Rye Malt Single Cask, made from NSW heritage rye grain, custom smoked over sustainably harvested Australian native stringy bark, offering a truly unique and entirely Australian flavour profile. 

Nose: The aroma is meaty and there is subtle hint of maple bacon and stone fruits. Subtle hints of ginger and honey add a delicate floral touch.

Palate: On the palate, there is a mix of peaches, and apricots. These notes are seamlessly joined by the nutty warmth of roasted almonds and the zesty notes. There are layers of caramel slice with a hint of peppermint (or eucalyptus) adding a refreshing lift.

Finish: The finish is long, as the flavours of fruit, nuts, and spice intertwine with smoky campfire notes. Te finish leaves a lasting impression of balanced sweetness and savoury umami depth.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)

Thanks Will & Dave from Archie Rose for hosting us and taking us through the new single cask series.

Cheers,

Hendy