Wednesday 28 August 2024

TimeforWhisky.com interviews Spirit of the Craft Award winners Westward Whiskey, Launceston Distillery, Raasay Distillery & Macaloney's Distillery

We recently posted news on Facebook of a new Spirits Awards (hear us out...), the first from Asia, focusing on smaller producers around the world. "Spirit of Craft Awards" was launched in January of this year, and involves a panel of experts from Asia's bar and drinks media community.

Over three months, entries from across 15 countries – Australia, Cambodia, Canada, Finland, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Italy, Scotland, Singapore, Thailand, New Zealand, Netherlands, and the U.S. – made their way to Singapore for judging by a panel of 36 judges in early May, with the results announced shortly after.

The full list of 2024/2025 winners can be found here, but we were lucky enough to score an interview with four of the winners, including both "3 Star" winners Isle of Raasay & Launceston Distillery, as well as Westward Distillery (whose whiskies we've covered a few times on the blog) & Macaloney Distillery

We wanted to understand what made their whiskies unique, the industry changes they've seen, how they engage customers in an increasingly crowded market, and any learnings they've picked up about running a distillery. So without further ado, we bring the answers from:
  • Launceston Distillery Head Distiller / Production Manager - Chris Condon
  • Raasay Distillery Co-Founder and Master Distiller - Alasdair Day
  • Westward Distillery Master Blender - Miles Munroe; and
  • Macaloney's Island Distillery President & Master wheiskymaker - Dr Graeme Macaloney

The view from Raasay Distillery's warehouse


1. There’s a lot of great whisky out there, and a lot of distilleries who’ve opened in the past 5-10 years. In a sentence of two, what makes yours stand out?
  • Launceston: "We are a boutique whisky distillery, solely focussed on producing hand-crafted single malts. Our location in a restored heritage-listed aircraft hangar is an obvious point of difference. We also try to stay true to ourselves, an independent distillery that strives to consistently make high quality small batch whisky."
  • Raasay: "We do everything on Raasay - using water from our well at the distillery for mashing, fermentation, cooling, cask reduction and reduction to bottling strength. We mature all of our spirits in our own warehouses and bottle everything on site, where we now employ over 40 people who live on Raasay (an island with a population of only 161!). Our community and island are a constant source of inspiration, seen in the bespoke Isle of Raasay bottles with hand printed rock and fossil formations from our complex geology. Our spirit directly reflects and truly represents the island where it is created."
  • Westward: "At Westward, which is located in the heart of the American Northwest we’re beholden to whiskey, not the traditions that surround it. Westward is brewed like a Pale Ale, distilled like a Single Malt, and aged like a Bourbon. Our whiskeys are matured to perfection in Oregon, one of the most fertile barley-growing regions in the world, where our unique hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters are the ideal environment to raise a world class whiskey."
  • Macaloney's: "The World Whiskies Awards (WWAs) in the UK are the most competitive in the world and conducted via blind tasting with industry-experienced judges. At these, our whisky and new-make underpinning our whiskies have won 3 'World's Best' and 8 'Category Best' gold medals. Our growing repeat sales, in Taiwan, across Europe, and elsewhere (we are interested to find a distributor for Australia) in an economic climate where Scotch sales are down, speaks to the excitement and interest in high quality whiskies with real craft provenance like ours."
Launceston Distillery


2. How have you seen the industry change in the time since you started?
  • Launceston: "There has been tremendous growth in the Tasmanian industry. The number of distilleries has doubled in that time. But consumers are now more aware of Tasmanian spirits, and there has been international recognition for the quality of whisky coming from Tasmania."
  • Raasay: "There have been some massive changes in the industry in Scotland since we founded R&B Distillers in July 2014. At that time there were only 90 operating distilleries in Scotland selling single malt whisky. Now there are over 150 malt and grain distilleries. There have been huge steps forward in technology since we designed our process for our Isle of Raasay distillery particularly in sustainable technology."
  • Westward: "Westward began in 2004. At the time, there were just 3 dozen craft distilleries in the U.S. Today, we’re proud to be a leader among more than 3,000. With that, it means that to truly stand out you have to have a distinct point of view, excellent quality credentials, and an innovative approach."
  • Macaloney's: "There has been a lot more interest in craft single malt as enthusiasts look for greater quality, yearn to understand what creates the flavours, and are interested in genuine provenance. Also connoisseurs have come to realise that quality is not tied to age and that deep complex maturation comes from best distilling practices and the best oak casks."
Westward's Miles Munroe


3. As a craft distillery, what’s the best way to engage new and potential fans?
  • Launceston: "For people who are not familiar with our whisky, nothing beats giving them a taste. Therefore, award programs like SOcraft provide valuable recognition and exposure, which gives new customers the confidence to taste our whisky for the first time."
  • Raasay: "We are creating experiences for all of our guests who visit our Isle of Raasay distillery. The adventure starts when you make the 25 minute ferry crossing from Sconser on Skye to the Isle of Raasay, then a short walk (and an even shorter drive) to the distillery. We have six luxury ensuite bedrooms, a restaurant, residents lounge and a bar all with amazing views looking back over the Sound of Raasay to the Cuillin Mountains on Skye. It's the perfect place to relax with a Raasay dram, gin or a cocktail and soak up the full Isle of Raasay experience!"
  • Westward: "We’re lucky to have won a host of awards and accolades, including the distinction as the #5 whisky in the world by Whisky Advocate. Those major acknowledgements – and the recognition of global authorities in whisky like Dave Broom, Becky Paskin, and others — have certainly helped us discover new fans and followers. We also love sharing what it is that we do with whiskey enthusiasts and visitors to the distillery, and proudly serves as an ‘open book’ in our approach to whiskey-making. This approach to transparency – where no question is off-limits – really helps us stay engaged with our customers."
  • Macaloney's: "Liquid to lips! We love to send ambassadors in to whisky clubs or into whisky stores for vertical tastings, and to festival masterclasses where enthusiasts can taste our quality and hear our story."
Macaloney Distillery tour


4. What’s your “go to” or everyday whisky from your line-up, and why? What about your “special occasion” whisky?
  • Launceston: "Our tawny cask matured whisky is a great everyday whisky. It has lovely fruity aromas and flavours, a rich smooth mouthfeel, and a finish that a judge recently compared to a ‘friendly bear hug’. It sips well neat,  but also has nice complexity that works well with cocktails. On special occasions we like our peated release. It is mildly peated with sweet bourbon and tawny influences to balance the smoke. This makes it very approachable, even for people who don’t like peat."
  • Raasay: "My "go to" whisky from our line-up is our signature Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt as this represents everything we do on Raasay. 80% of our annual production is filling the casks for our unique Na Sia cask recipe - we mature 6 separate cask types and marry these together at bottling to created our lightly peated style with dark fruit flavours. My "special occasion" whisky is our fully matured Columbian Oak 'Quercus humboldtii' cask single malt. This has a depth of flavour and texture ranging from Creme brulee to oolong tea. It is very special indeed and a very unique cask type to the Scotch Whisky industry."
  • Westward: "The one to always reach for is Westward Whiskey Original, this is what began the innovative journey we’re still on. Our flagship whiskey is the trunk of the tree with almost all other variations branching off from this starting point.  It envelops everything about why we do what we do at Westward in the bottle.  My special occasion pour is most certainly Westward Whiskey Milestone.  Without a doubt the most elegant single malt we’ve produced, it's a marriage of our most highly prized casks and carefully blended over years in a twenty-one barrel Solera system."
  • Macaloney's: "Thats a tough question partly because there are all my babies, plus we uniquely distill 3 very different styles - Single malt, Triple distilled pot still, and Peated single malt (smoked at our distillery). Of the single malts i love the an loy because like japanese single malts it is delicate and nieuanced  but with great depth and bapanced complexity. For the triple pot still it has to be the kildara becuase it defeated 27 year old, 21 yo, 15yo and 12 yo redbreast irish whiskies to win worlds best!, And for the peated a favorite is hard to choose becuase the 15ppm an aba is delicately sherried, whereas the 27 ppm siol dugall is fantastic for its virgin and bourbon-wood influence, whereas our peat project sugar kelp infused 54ppm peated single cask is a spectacular exploration of terroir and merroir!"
Westward Distillery


5. When you were growing your distillery, which was more important - on-premise or off-premise / retail?
  • Launceston: "Both cannot be overlooked, and I would suggest they are as important as each other.  On-premise allows for new consumers to try our whisky without the outlay of a bottle purchase, however the retail space needs to be considered to give the consumer the easiest path to purchase once they have enjoyed it in a bar or restaurant."
  • Raasay: "All of our sales channels are very important to us. On-premise is where new and potential fans can discover our Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt & gin, seeing our bottle stand out on the back bar and enjoy their first dram. Off-premise / retail is where fans and lovers of Isle of Raasay can acquire our spirits, satisfy their signature Raasay desires and seek out our latest special releases."
  • Westward: "Great question, and this has changed of course drastically through Covid and beyond. We look for a mix of both at Westward. We’re fortunate to have many enthusiasts in the bar world who respect what we do, and that is an excellent path for consumer discovery. But we also recognize that our whiskey needs to be available for a consumer who then wants to shop for our products.."
  • Macaloney's: "Off premise however i now realize our whiskies are amazing in cocktails so bars will be important going forward."
Launceston Distillery's "Angus"


6. What’s one thing you wish you knew about running a distillery before you began?
  • Launceston: "Sometimes the romance of running a distillery can be very different to the reality. It can be hard work and it requires patience and perseverance. But when everything comes together after years of maturation it is well worth the effort."
  • Raasay: "How difficult it can be to stay focused on our key messaging and continuously, consistently preach that key messaging to the world. "
  • Westward: "With Westward, we’re always planning several years ahead. The whiskey we make today won’t see the light of day for at least half a decade (give or take), and so we are always a step ahead. That includes some of our expansion efforts – like our capacity increase we recently underwent."
  • Macaloney's: "HOW HARD IT IS TO MAKE A PROFIT AFTER ALL THE COSTS AND TAXES!"
A stunning vista from Raasay Distillery

 
 



Thanks must go to Chris, Alasdair, Miles & Dr Graham for the time and answers, and to the great team at Food News Singapore for coordinating the responses & media.

Cheers,
Martin.



Saturday 17 August 2024

Halcyon Spirits 27yo Single Cask 1996 Burnside [Tasted #677]

I wrote last year about new Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits, and how their 2000-strong cask inventory probably meant we'd probably see many bottles to come. It wasn't long after their inaugural release (a 30yo Macallan) that I tasted their second release (a 32yo Auchentoshan) and whilst I didn't manage to try their third (a 30yo Clynelish), the team have now released (and kindly sent me a sample of) their fourth - a 27yo Burnside from 1996 (finished in an ex-sherry cask and bottled in 2024).

"Burnside", some of you may ask? Basically, a teaspooned whisky, or a blended malt which is predominantly one malt, with only a small amount of another. There's a whole discussion to be had about if all "teaspooned" whisky is really teaspooned, or if some of it is single malt simply labelled/sold as a blended malt, but that's for another post. 

In this case, Burnside is the name given to a whisky predominantly made up of Balvenie, with only a small amount of Glenfiddich


Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #4" Burnside Aged 27 Years (52.9% ABV, Blended Malt, 27yo, 1 of 292 bottles, Scotland, £195)
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Colour: Burnished copper-gold

Nose: Fruit & nuts, pear, honey and some molasses. There are sultana notes, and after some air & time to open up, subtle ginger hints.

Palate: Initial citrus zest, giving way to more honey and molasses, some oak spice, walnuts, dried oranges, vanilla custard, some green frog jelly lollies, and finally some cinnamon. The sherry influence is there, without doubt, but it doesn't overpower the whisky, allowing other notes to show.

Finish: Medium to long, with dried orange most predominant, and subtle ginger spice in the background.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). I enjoy Balvenie, and have always enjoyed the Burnsides I've tried - a lot. This one is no different - a great dram, and a very reasonable price for a 27yo (more or less) Balvenie!


Cheers,
Martin.

Friday 9 August 2024

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" - Bruichladdich 31yo, Arran 24yo & Glenburgie 24yo [Tasted #674 - 676]

Whisky and art collaborations are nothing new - we've seen everything from Macallan's "Masters of Photography" series, to Glenfiiddich's "Arists in Residence" program, to Glenmorangie's more recent efforts with Azuma Makoto. My view of these has always been the same - they can be fun, sure, and when the collaboration "fits", even great, but fundamentally the underlying whisky has to be good. At the end of the day, you can't drink art!

Thankfully, Cask88's latest collaboration with Britain's legendary illustrator Ralph Steadman not only brings the fun & feels like it "fits", it also involves some fantastic whisky!

Dubbed the Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course, the series is intended to take drinkers on a journey of Scotland's distilleries via illustrations from Ralph Steadman's 1994 memoir "Still life with Bottle: Whisky According to Ralph Steadman" adorning bottles of "exquisite, greatly aged, unique single malts from the finest distilleries in Scotland".

Starting (fittingly) with Part One, the series kicks things off with 3 single cask bottlings, available individually by the 700mL bottle or as a set of 3 x 50mL miniatures:



The team at Cask88 were kind enough to send me a miniature set for review, and I've gotta say, this is one of the most impressively designed "sample sets" I've ever seen - right down to the ink pot sample bottles. Sure, it's all about the whisky inside, but opening this certainly brought a smile to my face.



Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Bruichladdich 31yo (50.6% ABV, 31yo, Refill Hogshead #2258, Islay, Scotland, £565$5,650HKD)
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Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Light and fruity - grape skins, pear & peach, followed by subtle vanilla hints.

Palate: Oh now we're talking - Tropic Thunder! Passionfruit, lots of pineapple, some guava and apple. Grapefruit, vanilla & pear notes too. It's a tropical fruit basket, with perfectly balanced sweetness.

Finish: Largely follows the palate - tropical right to the end, when a cooling subtle mint note kicks in.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Beautiful.

 


Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Arran 24yo (44.7% ABV, 24yo, Oloroso Hogshead #1556, £565 / $4,250HKD)
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Colour: Rich amber gold.

Nose: Creamy strawberries & raspberries, with a spray of orange zest, and underlying chocolate hints.

Palate: In line with the nose, sweet strawberries and raspberries, then maple syrup, walnuts, peanut brittle, strawberries again (with cream this time), and more of that chocolate.

Finish: Long and full of dark chocolate and oranges, with a slightly bitter raspberry note.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Arran around this age can be very good, and this is no exception.




Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Glenburgie 24yo (55.2% ABV, 24yo, 1st Fill Sherry Butt #9316, £300 / $3,000HKD)
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Colour: Deep copper.

Nose: Funk, slight sulphur note, chocolate-coated cherries and sour gummies - something I only occasionally find on well-serried whiskies, but a note I really enjoy.

Palate: Rich, unctuous and funky. Oak, but balanced with savoury sherry notes, mature oranges, coffee beans, rooibos tea and ripe raspberries, with a slight bitterness after some air.

Finish: Long, warming coffee notes with some berries, and oak funk.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Lots going on here, and it all works well together. Really enjoyable.

 

I have to say, I was expecting one, maybe two of these casks to be standouts, but didn't expect all 3 to be so good. All very different (fruity, moderately sherried & very sherried), but all excellent.

The Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course is available directly from Cask88 in the UK, or from Dram Good Stuff in Hong Kong (pricing and links above).


Cheers,
Martin.

Monday 5 August 2024

Starward Botrytis Cask [Tasted #673]

Before discovering Starward's latest release, the Botrytis Cask, I had never heard of Botrytis wine. A conversation with Martin revealed it's a type of dessert wine, piquing my interest to learn a bit more about this wine. Some reading into Botrytis wine unveiled fascinating details about this unique wine and how it influences Starward's new project release.

Botrytis is a type of fungus that shrivels and decays wine grapes (see below for an image of the fungus on a bunch of riesling grapes), yet is highly coveted in winemaking due to its ability to intensify sweetness and add flavour complexity. Known scientifically as Botrytis cinerea, this fungus is related to the strains used in penicillin and blue cheese. In winemaking, Botrytis dehydrates the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours, which makes the resulting wine richer and sweeter. This process, often referred to as 'noble rot,' creates dessert wines with unique notes of honey, beeswax, and ginger. Notable examples include France's Sauternes and Hungary's Tokaji Aszú."

Typically harvested late in the season, Botrytis wines undergo a meticulous, slow fermentation process and can age gracefully for decades. Their rarity and labour-intensive production often make them expensive and highly sought after as the grapes are often hand picked to ensure there is a balance between botrytis fruit amongst the grapes.

Now what happens when you age whisky in Botrytis wine casks? I gather that the whisky will impart the characteristics from the Botrytis wine; with added sweetness, complexity, and a perhaps a rich, multidimensional whisky. 

So this is exactly what Starward have done in their latest unveiling, the Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. It was first filled in 2017 and bottled this year. As Head Blender at Starward Jarrad Huckshold explained, he had to use both, fresh and charred Botrytis casks when creating this release The combination of two barrel finishes helped the liquid “develop the distinct dessert-like characteristics”. Jarrad added: “The fresh barrels impart those nuanced botrytis characteristics on our signature spirit; while the portion of casks that were charred offer a slightly savoury mouthfeel and balance out some of the dessert-like characteristics. This is a moreish whisky that will make an impression.” 

It is said that Botrytis casks are uncommon as they're only made in small quantities in Australia, making this release exceptionally rare for Starward. In Australia, Botrytis semillon is a notable example of this style, produced from semillon grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea. The Hunter Valley is particularly famous for its Botrytis semillon, where the warm and humid climate, morning fog, and cooler evenings create perfect conditions for the development of 'noble rot'. The Hungerford Hill Botrytis Semillon is one example, with notes of sweet apricots and marmalade, balanced with some lemon citrus, balancing the richness and finishing clean. 

Starward Botrytis Cask (48% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

The Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. Overall, it was a concoction of dessert flavours, almost resembling what I would call a Christmas whisky with the range of sweet, rich and delectable notes.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich aroma of wax honey, reminiscent of honeycomb, followed by a refreshing hint of peppermint, the smell of a lush winter morning. There’s a delectable scent of scrumptious Christmas cake, laden with dried fruits and spices, accompanied by a sweet cherry glaze. Notes of rum and raisin ice cream add a creamy, boozy undertone, while fresh apples and pears, and a medley of fruit salad, bring a lively, juicy character. Hints of burnt orange and cinnamon round out the nose, adding warmth and complexity.

Palate: On the palate, it is rich and indulgent, starting with the sweet, comforting taste of vanilla cupcakes. More of those succulent raisins and fruit bread come through, complemented by the flavour of rum-soaked bread, echoing the notes of a traditional Christmas cake from the nose that's packed with raisins. Cinnamon buns add a spicy sweetness. The chewy texture of caramel lollies adds a luscious, lasting sweetness, creating a beautifully balanced and layered experience.

FinishThe finish is exceptionally long. Glazed cherry remnants provide a sweet, fruity finish, with persistent notes of rum and raisin that carry through to the end. A subtle hint of mint gradually settles, offering a refreshing, clean conclusion.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

The Botrytis Cask is the latest addition to the illustrious lineup of project releases, adding to the previous project release expressions. Starward Botrytis Cask is a distillery-exclusive release— to get your hand on a bottle, you can enter the ballot here to secure your bottle. The ballot will be drawn on 21st August.

Thanks to the Starward team for providing a sample Botrytis Cask bottling for us to try

Cheers

Hendy